Trip Log: Algonquin Provincial Park: Source Lake to Raven Lake - July 18-19, 2018

Since the kids wanted to visit with my parents for a few days, Chris and I decided to take advantage of our alone time and do a night of canoe camping.  The advantage (besides the obvious) is that Chris only has to portage one canoe, so we can try and get to lakes with longer portages.

We had considered trying to get into Welcome Lake as it was showing as completely empty on the online reservation service, but I was down with a summer cold, and thought maybe treking over two kilometres with a 60 lb pack wasn't the best idea.  Also, timing wise, we would have gotten to Welcome Lake pretty late, given the time to paddle Rock Lake as well as Pen Lake, then do a portage over 2km long.  We decided on putting in at Source Lake, and doing two portages into Raven Lake.

We had to make a quick stop at Algonquin Outfitters for sunscreen and fuel for the stove.  We'd tried Canadian Tire before we left home, but they told us the brand they sold had been recalled for that type of fuel.

I'm not sure what time we arrived, probably around 1pm, got our permit at the Canoe Lake office and headed down the road.  The parks staff were doing some work on the Source Lake Road on the way in, I'm assuming to even out wash board spots.

We quickly loaded the canoe and set off.

Did you know loons have black feet?

Crossing Source Lake wasn't a long paddle.  I'd read some reports that said it could get very windy and wavy but we didn't have any problems.  The wind did pick up as we got close to the little bay where the portage was, but the waves stayed manageable.

It's here I should mention that I made one of my classic mistakes.  We were half way through the drive north when I realized I hadn't remembered to change into my Keen sport sandals.  In fact, I was wearing $5 flip flops.  So not only were we going to be doing the longest portage we had yet attempted, but I was going to be doing it without proper footwear.

The initial hill of the portage wasn't too steep, but the pack was heavy, and my feet were wet.  If you've never tried to walk up a hill in wet flip flops, let me tell you...it's not fun.  My feet kept sliding out of my shoes, I was huffing and puffing so bad I thought my chest might explode and my shoulders were killing me.  I got about 50 meters in and almost started crying, thinking there was no way I could do this portage, let alone the 920m still ahead of us.

Thankfully the trail levelled out for the most part, and even though it sucked, and my shoulders were screaming, we made it to Bruce Lake without mishap.  I did have a bit of an issue dropping the pack. It has this strap you can use that goes from the back, over top of the roll top and then clips down at the front.  We hadn't bothered to clip it on, and it got tangled around my arm.  I had that arm out of the normal carry strap, and with the extra strap hooked around my upper arm, I couldn't get the pack to shift enough to get the other arm out of it's carry strap...I had  to wait for Chris to drop the canoe and come help me, and ended up with a bruise on my arm because of it.  Did I learn my lesson and clip that extra strap into it's place?  No, but I was careful not to let it get looped onto my arm again.

Mostly, we were distracted by the fact that we could see the next portage across the lake...and it didn't look like the paddle was going to give us much of a break.

The landing at our site

We were right.  Long before we felt ready for it, we were landing the canoe and hauling our crap up another hill.  This portage was a bit more undulating, but after the initial rise on either end, it's fairly flat.  We stopped at the midway point where Chris was able to rest the canoe on a fallen tree, then we headed off again.  There were lots of big toads along the trail, and I almost stepped on a garter snake. It didn't even move, and I had to stop and make sure it wasn't actually dead.

By the time we made it to Raven Lake, my calves were cramping up and my shoulders on fire.  I think the straps need to be tightened because it felt like the pack was hanging more than sitting.  Something to look into next time.

We pushed off and went to the first campsite to check it out.  I'd read it was very steep and not very good, but we got out of the canoe and checked it out anyway.  It wasn't a horrible site, but the steep rise from the water would have been a pain for loading and unloading, as well as pumping water.  Chris liked it because he figured it would be good for swimming, but agreed we should check out the other site.  It was still pretty early in the day and I was pretty sure there wouldn't be anyone else staying on Raven Lake that night.

The sandy shallow water at the second site's put in won me over.  I'm not a dive-into-deep-water type of swimmer.  I'm a sit-in-4-inches-of-water kind of gal. (I grew up working at my grandparent's bait shop, where the customers used to like freaking me out with stories of giant muskie and trout that bit their toes off.)  The second site also had more open ground for tent site options so we decided to make it home for the night.  We set up the tent in front of the fire pit so we would have a good view.  There was a fire ban anyway, so it wasn't like we would have to worry about sparks from the fire landing on the tent.

Once the tent was up, Chris went for a swim, wading far out to find deeper water, while I sat in the sandy shallows.  He came and joined me and we spent a relaxing hour or so enjoying the quiet.  Biscuit fetched his ball a few times and smacked me with his wet tail.  All in all, a nice time.

Potatoes, stuffing, veggie burger and gravy

Dinner was a completely unhealthy but easy and cheap mix of store bought foods since I still hadn't had much time to dehydrate anything.  A package of instant mashed potatoes, half a box of Stove Top, a packet of gravy and two frozen veggie burgers.  It was filling, and tasted all right...I think.  Did I mention I was suffering with a summer cold?  I couldn't taste much of anything, but Chris and Biscuit seemed to like it.

There was a garter snake living in the alders along the shore.   It kept coming out but would take off when we came close.  After we cleaned up, we hung the food bag and went out for a paddle and he was on the sand, maybe looking for a frog for his dinner.

We paddled along the shore of the entire lake, finding a few spots that looked like maybe they used to be campsites.  There was one spot, near the other campsite, but not so close that it looked like part of the other site, where it looked like a trail.  It was wide and very distinct and we wondered if there used to be an old portage trail leading to Burnt Island Lake.  We didn't get out and investigate, the sun was setting and we decided to head back to camp.

Once back at our site, we tucked away any gear that was laying around and decided to crawl into the tent.  Since we couldn't have a fire, and the site didn't have anywhere to sit near the water, there wasn't much else to do.  I was a bit chilled, and somehow my butt had gotten wet while we were paddling around.  I realized afterwards it was because Biscuit was biting at the little whirlpools created with each of my paddle strokes, and every time he lifted his head, water would dribble out of his mouth and onto my seat.

Biscuit preparing for Chris for a wakeup call

It was a quiet night.  A few loons, a few owls and lots of bull frogs.  I was awake most of the night blowing my nose, and every time I did, Biscuit would get up and bunt me in the face.

When it started to get light out, he wanted out of the tent so I got up, grabbed the camera and wandered around the site.  There was some nice fog on the water, and the morning light was beautiful.  I really wish there had been a place to sit, or that we had brought chairs.  After taking a few pictures, I went back to bed for another hour or so.

We got up around 7:30.  It was time for coffee and pancakes...well one pancake each.  The frying pan that comes with our pot set is great for one big pancake, but not so great for a few little ones.  Chris did the cooking this time, and soon enough we were eating and cleaning up so we could head down the portage trail to Owl Lake to check it out.

The trail was pretty flat, but littered with rocks and roots that made it a slow hike (for me in my wet flip flops.  Chris was fine.)  We didn't portage the canoe over,  just walked the trail, took a few pictures and headed back.  Chris had found a trail at our site that he had followed during his initial explorations and it went pretty far, so when we got back to camp, he decided to follow it while I made use of the thunder box. (Note to anyone thinking of camping on this site...the thunder box is in plain view of the rest of the campsite, so if you aren't comfortable with your companions seeing your bare butt, maybe try the other site...)

Morning mist on Raven Lake

Turned out, the trail he followed went all the way to Owl Lake, and from the end, he could see the campsite that had been just around shore from the portage.  It was also a much easier trail, minus the few blow downs he had to bypass, and followed a creek for a bit.  It had to have been a portage at one point, but why would the park discontinue it's use and create one that was so riddled with rocks when this path was so clear and pretty?  I guess the fact it passed along the back of the campsite might be a good reason.  I watched him go by as I was preparing to use the facilities, so I guess campers might not be thrilled to have a group of camp kids go through while they were in a vulnerable state.

We spent some time watching four loons that were swimming just off shore, puttered around a bit, then decided there was no point in delaying the inevitable.

Biscuit waits patiently for pancakes

It didn't take us long to pack up and head back out onto the water.  Neither of us was looking forward to the portage and it was way hotter than it had been on our way in the day before.  We landed and I got a head start while Chris lashed the paddles to the yoke.  By the time I made it to the midway point, I was breathing so hard and I just wanted the pack off.  I ended up standing there, bent at the waist, just to ease some of the weight on my shoulders, though that wasn't doing my back any favours.  Chris came along then and says he's just going to keep going.  It should be said that the only way I could get the pack onto my shoulders was for him to lift it and then I'd slide my arms in.  If he wasn't stopping, I wasn't getting the pack onto my back again.  He took five steps then came back for a rest, thankfully, or I might have mutinied.

Once we made it to Bruce Lake, we decided to check out the campsite.  There's only one on the lake, and we couldn't see it on the way in.  It sits up on some nice rock, has a bit of a challenging climb to get your gear up, but it's a nice site, has a great bench and a nice view.  The tent pads are a bit away from the fire pit, following a little trail.  We sat on the bench and decided we would come back to it with the kids some time.

After a brief rest, we headed back out and landed at the portage back into Source Lake.  Chris had said the 540m would feel like nothing after the 920m, but he was wrong.  It still kinda sucked.   I'm pretty sure someone threw a few good sized rocks in the bottom of the pack or something.

The paddle back to the access point was nice.  It felt like we hadn't done much paddling on this trip.  I had joked about how it would be great to do more portaging and less paddling because Biscuit is not a fun dog to paddle with.  He has lots of fun...but his constant biting of the water makes it a jerky, sketchy ride for us.  Of course, as much as he loves the canoe, he loves the car more, and as soon as we got close to shore, he jumped out before we could grab his leash, and bolted.  Thankfully there were no other people around.  Chris was able to get his shoes on and go let him in, then drove down to pick up the gear and strap the canoe to the roof.

After a quick detour to Lake of Two River's Store for some snacks, we headed back south to pick the kids up and head home.

stuff left behind by previous campers

I've thought a lot about whether Raven Lake was worth the portages.  It's a small lake, and while it was pretty enough, it wasn't a super scenic spot.  It was quiet though.  We only saw a group of 3 canoes (kids from the camp on Source Lake maybe) come through, so in that respect, it was great.  I like that we did some longer portages, and while they weren't fun (are they supposed to be?) they weren't as bad as I had thought.  Some reorganizing of gear might be in order.  We take a four person tent because of the dog, but maybe if it had been just the two of us, we would have taken our little 2 person tent and saved a few pounds.

All in all, it was a good trip.  We had fun, enjoyed a quiet lake to our selves, and since we spent a good part of the drive home discussing where we might go next, I'd have to say it was a success.